The Ghan
Real life painting
Really, really red
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The Ghan and the Outback

Entering the Red Centre: Beyond Color

When writing about our travels and experiences on our way to visit the Red Centre of Australia, I’ve referred to our arrival in our  jumping off point of Adelaide as a soft landing, at least in reference to the beginning of production for the documentary. As we prepared to depart for the heart of the Red Centre, I can’t say my opinion changed much. For a city of more than a million people, Adelaide seemed surprisingly… cozy. Dropping off the rental car on the way to the train station, we couldn’t help noticing that the car had remained parked at the hotel for almost the entirety of our stay. Between the public trams and the easily accessible markets and commercial areas, most of the essentials for the itinerant traveler are well within reach. I can’t say with complete authority a car is unnecessary for an extended stay, but for what was essentially a layover, a repeat trip would have us forego the rental car.

With that, the heart of the trip was looming. This was the onset of what The Palette Project is all about – exploring the world through color – and the Great Southern Rail was getting us there. We had reserved overnight seats on the Ghan – the north/south rail line from Continue reading “Entering the Red Centre: Beyond Color”

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Adelaide, Australia
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Veale Gardens
What the...?

Si Se Puede: Adelaide Part I

All respect to Ché, this was our motto as we began our travels in Australia for The Palette Project.  We would shoot the stories we came to tell, but we would be open to whatever new adventures came our way, and when it came to new stories, we would not be disappointed. They… were… everywhere.

I often tell beginning storytellers  if they end a project with the same story they started with… they’re doing it wrong. My goal was to leave the southern hemisphere with loads of footage that was never Continue reading “Si Se Puede: Adelaide Part I”

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Queen Victoria

Of Soft Landings and New Experiences… Traveling to Australia

I’ve been to just about every state in the country of my birth (and I have my eye on you, Delaware), so I know on an intellectual level that even though I was traveling to Australia and New Zealand… two countries where English is the primary language, most of what I would be experiencing would be well out of my comfort zone. Traveling to Australia and then traveling to New Zealand for the documentary, and squaring that circle with actual boots-on-the-ground experience was a never ceasing jolt, and a mostly pleasurable one at that.

I would recommend Australia to any first-time international traveler because the experience provided both a soft landing as well as almost two weeks of surprises. Those surprises actually began in Los Angeles, while still on the tarmac at LAX, with the complimentary tim-tams. Tim-tams are little chocolate biscuits – an Australian favorite, apparently – and my sweet tooth took every opportunity to assert itself whenever I encountered these treats. I just love the idea that even snacks are different somewhere else… although we may have a permanent gulf when it comes to vegemite, marmite and other —mite related spreads. However, for the flight to Adelaide via Melbourne, it was a fifteen hour introductory course in culture assimilation.

This must be said.  While I know that airlines like RyanAir and the like exist… airlines that seem to have adopted the Baron von Sacher-Masoch theory of travel and the Gordon Gecko theory of cost cutting… the Qantas flight was simply a revelation for me. I’ve flown every U.S. domestic carrier that exists, and quite a few that don’t exist any longer (oh, People’s Express, we hardly knew ye), mostly in economy class. Much like the tale of the man who accidentally kills himself in the bath because he increased the water temperature in such small increments that he didn’t realize how hot it was getting, airlines have successfully implemented this strategy at 35,000 feet with regard to our expectations. From reducing meals… first to sandwich packs and then to snack packs and then nothing at all, from removing magazines in favor of paid internet access (if you’re lucky), to charging for pillows, the strategy of turning an airplane into a bus with wings has long since been a success.

So it was a surprise to find that the good folks at Qantas economy not only provided seats that allowed us to sleep with a degree of comfit I was completely unfamiliar with in economy class, each seat had a pillow and blanket on it when we sat down.Tthey further astounded me by… feeding us. Yes, for the love of all hat is good and holy, they fed us. Often. Osso Bucco and grilled baramundi… in economy? Food at all? Snacks on demand? We had escaped the surly bonds of earth and touched the face of God… in tim-tam form.

It’s not even that they fed us on the long haul segment. This was perhaps somewhat expected. although the frequency and generosity surprised me. It was that they even fed us… twice (!) on the flight from Melbourne to Adelaide. Domestic flights serving food. I never got over that.

The surprises kept coming from there. I’m a baseball fan. I have been since almost as far back as I can remember, and rather than wax rhapsodic, I would simply refer you to anything anyone says in any episode of the Ken Burns documentary… I can’t top that. It, like football, is the background soundtrack of my life. So, wandering to the departure in Melbourne for the connecting flight to Adelaide and hearing excited voices talking about the world cricket finals was an absolutely new experience. I don’t know how cricket is played, even after almost a month of hearing about it on every radio and television station in Australia and New Zealand, but I love that there is a different and pervasive way of loving sport that contrasts with everything Iv’e ever known.

Of course, the driving on the left… I was the passenger for this journey, but I kept leaning forward in my seat expecting to hit the steering wheel. After all, I was sitting on the left side of the car. There should be a steerage wheel there.. Looking out the window and seeing cars driving opposite us on the right was thrilling, just for the novelty of it to an American eye.

And this was just the first three hours.

Those first few hours on the ground in a new and unexplored… to me… country are just a feast for all the senses. You hear words you don’t hear every day, even in English. The lift, the petrol station, the bonnet and the boot, and the phrase “no worries” repeated over and over in the actual Australian accent. Wandering in Veale Gardens near our hotel, you’re not just seeing flowers and plants you’ve never seen before, your’e smelling fragrances that are completely new to this particular nose, and while I now know that spinifex is just the plague of agriculture in the outback and everywhere else it manages to take root, the feel of these little silica tipped grasses from something that looks completely harmless was something I’ll never forge… even if it was kind of painful.

There is, of course a long discussion that needs to be had when it comes to ice, or the lack thereof, but I believe I’ll save that for another day, because this post is about optimism and adventure. It’s also about finding adventure in the ordinary. In the park that is built around a statue of Queen Victoria or Captain Cook. About the idea that your hiking shoes, and the microbes they might contain, are of far more concern to the customs official than the thousands of dollars of camera gear you’re importing into the country. Of the use of words you know well, like dollar, that still make you do math in your head all day to figure out what that cup of coffee is actually costs, or what 250ml actually gets you.

Queen Victoria
Queen Victoria in Adelaide’s Victoria Square

It’s a feast of revelations that you don’t need 20/20 vision to see, and as the first stop on our filming journey, Adelaide did not disappoint.

Don’t forge hat Monday will have more practical travel tips! Plus, next Thursday – Adelaide in a hurry, and why you should go there.

One... But Not Done

Same Planet, Different Worlds

Australian entry stamp
Australian entry stamp

I think it was Gary Larsen who coined the phrase “Same planet, different worlds.” In the Far Side world, the phrase was used in a cartoon divided into two panels. The top panel was a guy sitting in bed with a thought balloon that read”I wonder if she likes me. I sure like her. It would be great if she likes me. I just like her so much…” and so forth. The bottom panel of the cartoon showed a woman in her own bed, and her thought balloon read, “You know, I think I like vanilla.”

Sometimes, Larsen just hit the nail right on the head, but what I’m thinking about right now when it comes to that same planet/different worlds concept is what it felt like in the line to clear customs upon entering Australia. Forgive me Gary, I’m repurposing your genius.

It was just past 5 a.m. in Melbourne and we had touchdown in Australia after a fifteen hour flight from Los Angeles. I was feeling no pain. I was way too excited to have any jet lag… although the nine hours of sleep I had managed to square away on the flight was also a nice add. However, I can imagine that for the unlucky soul who was stuck working pre-dawncustoms detail, this was not exactly how he wanted to spend his Friday. Me? There was no place on earth I would rather be. At 44, I was about to get my first passport stamp. Very late in coming, but it was finally here. All those people who say that they can’t wait to get their next passport stamp? I was about to become one of those people. I don’t particularly like the word “amped,” smacking as it does of a level of dudeness I cannot pretend to have, even after five years of living in California, but I was… amped.

It was hard not to notice, though, that the customs officer could only have been more bored if he had also been assigned to watch almost any episode of Downton Abbey while on duty, perhaps the one where we don’t know if Maggie Smith is going to take a dive in the annual flower show competition until the last five minutes of the show. I’m pretty sure nothing registered, or if he even looked up, as he stamped my passport with its inaugural stamp. Just another Qantas passenger moving over to the domestic terminal for the last part of the itinerary.

I could not have cared less. In my world, the best part of the journey was happening right there. Or rather, this was already a high point while on the trajectory of a journey that kept getting better, the first part had not disappointed.

What I want to say here is that there is a place for youthful idealism and excitement no matter how old you are. There is a place for finally following through on your dreams, and that a dream deferred is not always a dream denied if you finally follow through.

Muscle Memory, One Line at a Time

Learning to sail, both in the company of as well as completely apart from the world of visually impaired sailors, has been one of the most freeing experiences of the past year. Being an active part of both groups has taught me to experience and value the world in new ways.

As I’ve written previously, the color blue in The Palette Project is going to be represented by the ocean. Specifically, it has turned out that the nearest land mass will be New Zealand. I’ve been very fortunate that there have been so many men and women who have been so very generous with their time and skills, and crossing from Australia (representing red for the film) to New Zealand makes the first two legs of the film come together in an exciting way. New Zealand is the birthplace of the blind sailing community… at least, that’s what my research for the film is telling me right now. I’m sure there have been individual sailors with vision impairments before Don Mason gave it a go, but as I understand it, he is one of the central figures who helped create competitive racing crews composed of blind and visually impaired drivers and helmsmen. Today, there are established crews in Auckland, San Francisco, Newport, Boston and Tokyo among others.

I learned about the sport while the idea of trying to cross a busy intersection with a cane was still a formidable challenge. It’s still not always easy, and I imagine in a world of total sightlessness, if and when that day comes, it will be yet another seemingly impossible task to master, but one which is of course a skill which necessity and simple pride of independence will require handling on a daily basis. However, crossing the virtual street, or dock, to helm a sailboat is the kind of activity that lets people with handicaps assert in a very concrete way that the biggest barrier to physical accomplishment is one’s own mind. On the water really can steer your course by the feel of the wind. You can be the literal captain of your destiny.

To date, I have been part of two different crews. The first crew was via the Marin Sailing School’s nonprofit sailing program for the blind and visually impaired. I’ve been so fortunate to have been a part of this group that I wanted to give back in any way i could. That’s why the New Zealand leg of the film is being undertaken as an advocacy partner for this group. MSS teaches sailor who can compete in national and international competitions, and the logistics of supporting a local, Bay Area team are challenging. Working with these fine men and women is the chance to make sure their, now our, work continues.

I’ve also been incredibly fortunate to have been added to the crew of a boat that competes in races on San Francisco Bay and the surrounding area. This experience has been equally valuable.

When I started this particular journey, I had made a point of saying things like “I don’t want to be a member of a blind hiking group. I want to be a member of hiking group that doesn’t care that I’m blind.” I think it’s time to amend that position and say that what I really want is to be a member of both. The ear lie way of expressing that sentiment now seems disparaging to the former in the pursuit of the latter.

Sailing with both a crew of blind sailors and a crew of sailors in which I’m the only one with a physical handicap offers two unique perspectives. Blind racing and conventional crew racing are unforgiving environments, but I mean this in a positive way.

I have always had a rather black and white view of team competition: if a team did’t win because of you, then the team won in spite of you. This is a pretty harsh way of putting it, and it sounds like I’m pushing the ego button with both hands, but what I mean is that every member of a team has a significant role to play. If you do everything that is expected of you to the best of your ability, and maybe even beyond what you thought were your limits, and your team wins, then the team won because of you and everyone else on the team who also performed to those standards. However, if you do not do your job to the best of your abilities, then even if the team wins, there was a drag on performance.

I’d like to think I’m honest enough with myself to say that so far, as part of a fully sighted crew, three of four races our team has won have been in spite of, not because of my performance. I don’t like admitting it, but truth is truth. It speaks volumes that the crew is hanging in there while I work up to their standards. A lot of what happens on a conventional sailboat is, naturally, based on sight and visuals. Everything from spotting pockets of dead water (and hence, dead wind), trimming the sails so the telltails stream backwards to the very simple job of seeing where each line leads to which sail. These are basic sailing skills for which most people can be forgiven if they take those skills for granted.

I don’t have those skills. It’s a credit to the two crews I’ve sailed with that there is an openness to the idea that there are other ways. There’s always another way, but it sometimes takes some pretty creative thinking. That creative thinning has happened as part of the two teams.

I have to follow the advice of one of my forerunners in the blind community, Erik Weihenmeyer. He’s the climber who summated Everest and who, this past summer. successfully completed a solo kayak run through the Grand Canyon. In his book, “Touch the Top of the World,” he wrote that the mantra that gets him through his challenges is that the things he can’t do, he’ll lean to let go of, but the things he can do, he’ll learn to do well. The key to this idea is that the challenge of one’s life is to work every day to assume that the list of things one can do is ever growing. The example he gave was setting up a tent in subzero environments when he can’t take off his heavy padded gloves that deaden his sense of touch. He learned to do this task well so that his teammates wouldn’t have to do it for him. This, in my mind, is winning as a team because of, rather than in spite of you.

What I’m learning to do well is run the lines on a boat. The sighted crew on this team can look at a line and see where it goes and how taut it needs to be.  I can’t do that, but I can learn through practice and repetition, exactly where each line sits as it runs across the deck and through clutches, winches and cleats, and what it feels like when the lien is set correctly for a meaiver. I can compare what the wind feels like when I do this correctly. I can learn when an action by the sailor on the foredeck requires my cooperation on the mid-deck so that I can do my part without being asked exactly when the time comes. I can, in short, learn to do a skill well. It’s this this hard earned process of forming muscle memories on this boat that has been so gratifying and, dare I say, fun. Practicing the movements over and over so that when the time comes, locating the correct line by feel is second nature, locking and unlocking the lines and setting them to an optimal position is easy and feels right to me, and also helps shave precious seconds off our time. That goal of saving seconds appeals to me. I did it for years as a reporter, bargaining for an extra three seconds for a story or cutting down a piece when those extra seconds were not available. Speed and accuracy matter, and as an editor who has worked with a deadline that is inflexible and inviolable, this also speaks to me.

When you’re a reporter, the first reality check is that nobody ever tells you that you did a good job. Usually, the best you can expect is nobody excoriates you for doing a bad job. Everyone is too busy looking at the next deadline to worry about what already happened. I’m looking forward to the day I do my job on the boat so effectively I don’t hear the words “good job.” It’s just assumed that of course I did a good job… on to the next hurdle.

As a team.