Uluru Stands Alone
The Climbing Controversy
Uluru - Hands On

Uluru, The Big Picture

For this first leg of the documentary, Uluru was the focal point, and it’s why so many posts over the past few weeks have been devoted to it. Uluru is such a looming presence in Australia that it requires a significant amount of time to dwell on it. For me, writing as a visually impaired filmmaker, it’s been front and center in my mind since I first came up with the concept for The Palette Project – exploring the world, one color at a time – last May. As the virtual heart of the Red Centre, it is the natural fit for the color Red.

Uluru
Uluru, the heart of Australia’s Red Centre

I’ve also written about how this landmark has been in my mind for much longer than just the past year. I first read about Uluru – referred to at the time as Ayers Rock – in my college days. It’s taken me a lot longer to get here than I would have liked, and I can report with some degree of authority that a dream deferred is indeed a dream denied. I think anyone who writes… even casually… about travel will agree with the sentiment that just because a destination isn’t going anywhere, it hardly means you should go nowhere. Get out, experience our world. Do this.

I use Uluru as an example because this is a place that should be in your mind, but here’s the rub: you have to want it there. Even when you’re there, you have to really want to be enmeshed in what Uluru is all about. For me, as a person who needs to sense The Rock as much as see it, this is important, but it should be important for everyone. There’s a certain amount of… let’s call it Disneyfication… going on at Uluru. Parks Australia has worked very hard and in concert  with the Anangu Aboriginal owners to make Uluru-Kata Tjuta accessible and enjoyable, but you have to be prepared for what Uluru is… and what it decidedly is not.

Uluru is not Everest. It’s not Denali. It’s not an adventure challenge to be checked off a list. In the time we were on the ground, we ran into more adventure travelers then we could count, and most of them were disappointed, because there is just not much of a physical challenge to Uluru for most people. Parks Australia does go to quite reasonable lengths on the Uluru-Kata Tjuta website

to point this out. Almost all of the trails are of a moderate grade. Many of them are at least in part accessible to physically impaired individuals. Your biggest challenge will be the extreme heat of the outback, and this is not an issue to be taken lightly. With temperatures well over 90 degrees Fahrenheit and often over 110 degrees for most of the year, it’s a place where three to four liters of water per person is a good starting point (we each carried six liters). It’s a feast for the senses, but if you’re looking for your next K2, you will be sorely disappointed, as were many of the backpackers, trail bikers and climbers we met. I’m sorry to report this, but one of the most common phrases you’ll hear at Uluru is “this is it?”

And that’s why we need to talk about climbing Uluru.

Climbing Uluru is discouraged
On this day, the climb to the top of Uluru was closed due to inclement weather, but there are efforts underway to close the trail permanently.

To me, this is what happens when you try to shoehorn your expectations into a reality that has its own agenda, and I think it’s why so many people still want to climb Uluru… despite the fact that everyone with even the slightest amount of ownership or investment in the place would prefer you don’t. My cinematographer and I went back and forth on this very issue for months, and we didn’t make our final decision until the days just before our arrival. The final decision was we were not going to climb Uluru. I maintain a belief that if you want to do something badly enough, you’ll find a way to rationalize doing it, even if it’s the wrong thing to do… but that rationalizing a decision is the worst way to decide to do something.

As we spoke with other travelers, it was plainly obvious there was a lot of rationalizing going on. The reasons boiled down to three arguments:

  1. We traveled all this way so we deserve to make the climb.
  2. There’s nothing else to do here but make the climb.
  3. We just  really, really want to.

In the end, we couldn’t justify a climb with any of those rationalizations. The fact of the matter is,simple respect required us to abide by the wishes of our Anangu hosts. They’ve been here longer, and they understand this place in a way that I, as yet, cannot. Climbers on Uluru, to the Anangu, are human pollution, and the effect those climbers have on the environment… in the form of runoff, waste and wear… is severe. As an aside, the Anangu refer to climbers as minga, the word for ants. Footsteps on The Rock often don’t dissipate for days or even weeks. This should tell us something about how fragile the landscape is. Even to film at Uluru-Kata Tjuta, we had to sign releases promising we would under no circumstances go off-trail. This was hardly a sacrifice.

Yet, so much of Uluru is hidden in plain sight. It’s easy to be deceived by the well groomed trails, the burger and sushi bars at nearby Yulara, and the immaculate two tier wooden platforms at the sunrise viewing area with the massive car lot and boardwalk paths. You begin to feel you’re missing something. Easy hikes, no campsites and hotels as well appointed as anything you’ll fid in Orlando. This is the outback?

Well, yes it is, but you have to want it. My advice is to approach Uluru with the same measured nature  that the Anangu have practiced for thousands of years. Don’t treat the 10K trail around the base as a speed test. Linger in the silence of the watering holes. Treat the sacred art on the rock faces as a gift that rewards your presence, not as a trophy for your Instagram feed that proves you were there. This matters.

And do what I did. Feel Uluru. I mean this quite literally. I’ve lived in Colorado along the Front Range of the Rockies, and the one truism about mountains is that there is no distinct point where you can say “this is where the mountain starts.” That’s kind of the magic. The mountain just… becomes itself.

Uluru Hands On
Feeling where Uluru rises out of the desert is a once in a lifetime experience

Not so with Uluru, and this is a different kind of magic. What’s amazing about Uluru is that you can literally put your hand on the exact point where the monolith rises out of the desert. I’ve done this, and I can tell you that there is no need to climb Uluru  once you’ve felt it from the bottom up. It’s an epiphany – that Uluru is going to feel like this no matter where you are on it.

I came to Australia in search of the color Red. I came as a visually impaired storyteller, because I had to know if there was a way to experience color beyond sight. The answer is yes, this is possible. Red is power, solidity and accomplishment.

And at Uluru, it’s also respect.

What are your thoughts about climbing Uluru? Post below.

The Ghan
Real life painting
Really, really red
GoProGhanRed
The Ghan and the Outback

Entering the Red Centre: Beyond Color

When writing about our travels and experiences on our way to visit the Red Centre of Australia, I’ve referred to our arrival in our  jumping off point of Adelaide as a soft landing, at least in reference to the beginning of production for the documentary. As we prepared to depart for the heart of the Red Centre, I can’t say my opinion changed much. For a city of more than a million people, Adelaide seemed surprisingly… cozy. Dropping off the rental car on the way to the train station, we couldn’t help noticing that the car had remained parked at the hotel for almost the entirety of our stay. Between the public trams and the easily accessible markets and commercial areas, most of the essentials for the itinerant traveler are well within reach. I can’t say with complete authority a car is unnecessary for an extended stay, but for what was essentially a layover, a repeat trip would have us forego the rental car.

With that, the heart of the trip was looming. This was the onset of what The Palette Project is all about – exploring the world through color – and the Great Southern Rail was getting us there. We had reserved overnight seats on the Ghan – the north/south rail line from Continue reading “Entering the Red Centre: Beyond Color”

New and Improved, News You Can Use

News you can use. USA Today created the phrase, and I am hereby appropriating it. Starting this Monday, the Palette Project blog is adding an exciting new series of posts as a result of not only the first completed legs of the documentary, but also from  years of experience on the road in news and production.

Every Monday, The Crayon Box blog will have useful travel tips that  can help make your own adventures more fun, more meaningful, and more enjoyable. I also want to make sure to add tips that will make your travel safer, and I can tell you… there is no shortage of information in any of these areas.

The Thursday blog postings will remain dedicated to the more personal aspects of this journey. This blog began as a way of communicating what it’s like to be living through this kind of a challenge… the prospect of losing my sight, but maintaining a vision… and that hasn’t changed. I’m dedicated to living a life of urgency expressed through action, of outreach accomplished through awareness and of creating results from this work. It’s all about changing perspectives, raising expectations and telling stories that matter. That won’t change. Ever.

So while you’re reading this, glance to the right of the screen. There’s a “Susbscribe via Email” button that you can use to make sure you get valuable information and personal insights. It’s all happening here, and I need your help to spread the message of our mission.

Onwards!

Muscle Memory, One Line at a Time

Learning to sail, both in the company of as well as completely apart from the world of visually impaired sailors, has been one of the most freeing experiences of the past year. Being an active part of both groups has taught me to experience and value the world in new ways.

As I’ve written previously, the color blue in The Palette Project is going to be represented by the ocean. Specifically, it has turned out that the nearest land mass will be New Zealand. I’ve been very fortunate that there have been so many men and women who have been so very generous with their time and skills, and crossing from Australia (representing red for the film) to New Zealand makes the first two legs of the film come together in an exciting way. New Zealand is the birthplace of the blind sailing community… at least, that’s what my research for the film is telling me right now. I’m sure there have been individual sailors with vision impairments before Don Mason gave it a go, but as I understand it, he is one of the central figures who helped create competitive racing crews composed of blind and visually impaired drivers and helmsmen. Today, there are established crews in Auckland, San Francisco, Newport, Boston and Tokyo among others.

I learned about the sport while the idea of trying to cross a busy intersection with a cane was still a formidable challenge. It’s still not always easy, and I imagine in a world of total sightlessness, if and when that day comes, it will be yet another seemingly impossible task to master, but one which is of course a skill which necessity and simple pride of independence will require handling on a daily basis. However, crossing the virtual street, or dock, to helm a sailboat is the kind of activity that lets people with handicaps assert in a very concrete way that the biggest barrier to physical accomplishment is one’s own mind. On the water really can steer your course by the feel of the wind. You can be the literal captain of your destiny.

To date, I have been part of two different crews. The first crew was via the Marin Sailing School’s nonprofit sailing program for the blind and visually impaired. I’ve been so fortunate to have been a part of this group that I wanted to give back in any way i could. That’s why the New Zealand leg of the film is being undertaken as an advocacy partner for this group. MSS teaches sailor who can compete in national and international competitions, and the logistics of supporting a local, Bay Area team are challenging. Working with these fine men and women is the chance to make sure their, now our, work continues.

I’ve also been incredibly fortunate to have been added to the crew of a boat that competes in races on San Francisco Bay and the surrounding area. This experience has been equally valuable.

When I started this particular journey, I had made a point of saying things like “I don’t want to be a member of a blind hiking group. I want to be a member of hiking group that doesn’t care that I’m blind.” I think it’s time to amend that position and say that what I really want is to be a member of both. The ear lie way of expressing that sentiment now seems disparaging to the former in the pursuit of the latter.

Sailing with both a crew of blind sailors and a crew of sailors in which I’m the only one with a physical handicap offers two unique perspectives. Blind racing and conventional crew racing are unforgiving environments, but I mean this in a positive way.

I have always had a rather black and white view of team competition: if a team did’t win because of you, then the team won in spite of you. This is a pretty harsh way of putting it, and it sounds like I’m pushing the ego button with both hands, but what I mean is that every member of a team has a significant role to play. If you do everything that is expected of you to the best of your ability, and maybe even beyond what you thought were your limits, and your team wins, then the team won because of you and everyone else on the team who also performed to those standards. However, if you do not do your job to the best of your abilities, then even if the team wins, there was a drag on performance.

I’d like to think I’m honest enough with myself to say that so far, as part of a fully sighted crew, three of four races our team has won have been in spite of, not because of my performance. I don’t like admitting it, but truth is truth. It speaks volumes that the crew is hanging in there while I work up to their standards. A lot of what happens on a conventional sailboat is, naturally, based on sight and visuals. Everything from spotting pockets of dead water (and hence, dead wind), trimming the sails so the telltails stream backwards to the very simple job of seeing where each line leads to which sail. These are basic sailing skills for which most people can be forgiven if they take those skills for granted.

I don’t have those skills. It’s a credit to the two crews I’ve sailed with that there is an openness to the idea that there are other ways. There’s always another way, but it sometimes takes some pretty creative thinking. That creative thinning has happened as part of the two teams.

I have to follow the advice of one of my forerunners in the blind community, Erik Weihenmeyer. He’s the climber who summated Everest and who, this past summer. successfully completed a solo kayak run through the Grand Canyon. In his book, “Touch the Top of the World,” he wrote that the mantra that gets him through his challenges is that the things he can’t do, he’ll lean to let go of, but the things he can do, he’ll learn to do well. The key to this idea is that the challenge of one’s life is to work every day to assume that the list of things one can do is ever growing. The example he gave was setting up a tent in subzero environments when he can’t take off his heavy padded gloves that deaden his sense of touch. He learned to do this task well so that his teammates wouldn’t have to do it for him. This, in my mind, is winning as a team because of, rather than in spite of you.

What I’m learning to do well is run the lines on a boat. The sighted crew on this team can look at a line and see where it goes and how taut it needs to be.  I can’t do that, but I can learn through practice and repetition, exactly where each line sits as it runs across the deck and through clutches, winches and cleats, and what it feels like when the lien is set correctly for a meaiver. I can compare what the wind feels like when I do this correctly. I can learn when an action by the sailor on the foredeck requires my cooperation on the mid-deck so that I can do my part without being asked exactly when the time comes. I can, in short, learn to do a skill well. It’s this this hard earned process of forming muscle memories on this boat that has been so gratifying and, dare I say, fun. Practicing the movements over and over so that when the time comes, locating the correct line by feel is second nature, locking and unlocking the lines and setting them to an optimal position is easy and feels right to me, and also helps shave precious seconds off our time. That goal of saving seconds appeals to me. I did it for years as a reporter, bargaining for an extra three seconds for a story or cutting down a piece when those extra seconds were not available. Speed and accuracy matter, and as an editor who has worked with a deadline that is inflexible and inviolable, this also speaks to me.

When you’re a reporter, the first reality check is that nobody ever tells you that you did a good job. Usually, the best you can expect is nobody excoriates you for doing a bad job. Everyone is too busy looking at the next deadline to worry about what already happened. I’m looking forward to the day I do my job on the boat so effectively I don’t hear the words “good job.” It’s just assumed that of course I did a good job… on to the next hurdle.

As a team.